Why you go Fumi and Takako Tamura’s Gertrude Street sake bar has earned a place in Fitzroy’s heart, not only for its top-tier sake selection and bowls of ramen, but also for its intimacy: there are only around two dozen seats. In that sense, it’s nothing like the pair’s follow-up venue Izakaya by Tamura, nearby on Smith Street, which is comparatively huge (though it has a sense of warmth that Tamura Sake Bar regulars will be familiar with). Behind a bold bluestone facade is what the Tamuras consider their “Japanese-style pub”, injecting a healthy dose of Japan’s izakaya culture into Melbourne’s growing pub scene. On any given night, the dark and moody space is brought to life by groups huddled around tables filled not with classic pints and parmas, but easy-drinking whisky highballs and Japanese fried chicken (or JFC) that’s a signature for a reason.