NOW EXPERIENCING:Grace Darling Hotel

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 19 Dec 2023

By
Tomas Telegramma


This 19th-century neighbourhood watering hole has more than just bluestone beauty – it proudly supports local craft brews and delivers counter meals with flair.

Stained glass windows are a feature at the Grace Darling
Why you goBuilt in 1854 and now heritage-listed, this double-decker bluestone pub – standing tall on the corner of Smith and Peel Streets – is one of Collingwood’s oldest (and most treasured) watering holes. In fact, it’s one of few hotels from the gold-rush era in the inner city with an exterior that’s so unchanged. Generations of northsiders have been proud to call the Grace Darling their local, and the eclectic clientele (and staff) feel like a genuine cross-section of the suburb. You need only look at the Friday knock-off crowd for proof, with punters making their way around the venue as the night blazes on. They might catch the last of the sun with a session ale in hand outside on Peel Street, then move to the horseshoe-shaped front bar for a fireside brew, before settling into a cushy Burgundy-leather chair in the greenery-filled atrium as dinner rolls around and the parmas start rolling out of the kitchen at lightning speed. Catering to all sorts is one of the hallmarks of any good pub, but it’s something the Grace does with, well, grace.
What drink to order The list of beers on tap couldn’t be more approachable if it tried. There’s something for everyone, including traditionalists, who’ll find no shortage of ice-cold Carlton Draught, Coopers and Guinness to keep them occupied. Behind the taps are fridges full of tinnies, which is where things get a little more exciting – and a little more local – for beer fans. Supporting Melbourne-made brews is a big part of what the Grace Darling does. So you might find an oat-chai stout (or even a white-peach and cherry seltzer) by Bodriggy, a brewery one suburb over in Abbotsford, a bursting-with-berries sour from the Reservoir-based Hawkers, or Mordialloc’s Wolf of the Willows lager.
Staff pouring a beer at Melbourne's Grace Darling Hotel
A burger and parma at Collingwood's Grace Darling
What to pair it with As you’d expect, the Grace Darling does all the classic, beer-friendly counter meals confidently, but with a little extra flair. The signature parma uses free-range chicken breast, house-made sugo tomato sauce and torched mozzarella cheese, while the vegan version swaps it all out for fennel-crusted eggplant with smoky grilled zucchini and dairy-free cheese. (Bonus: they’re $22 and $20 respectively on Tuesday, aka Parma Night, when the pots of Coopers Pale Ale are $4 a pop). But there’s also a plethora of options if you feel like something other than traditional pub grub, such as lamb ribs braised low and slow, a Jamaican-inspired jerk-chicken burger, and a fancy salad with compressed cucumber.
Why we love it It’s a tried-and-tested pub, but that’s certainly not all. Beyond the pints and parmas, the Grace Darling gives up-and-coming musos a leg-up, hosting regular (and regularly jam-packed) gigs and DJ sets in its kitsch-carpeted band room. Plus, all sorts of other live entertainment, from comedy shows to life drawing. Keep an eye on its Instagram and website for upcoming events. 
Regular’s tipMoseying up to the time-worn front bar, your first thought might not be to order a cocktail. But while the Grace Darling is by no means a cocktail bar, it sure makes a mean one. Get a red-hot start to your Saturday night with a surprisingly spot-on Spicy Marg, or a reviving hair of the dog the next day with a generously garnished Bloody Mary.
A Martini served at the Grace Darling Hotel in Melbourne
Don’t leave withoutStick your head into the stone-walled, bunker-like cellar bar, just downstairs from the atrium. While it’s not open for general service, it’s one of Smith Street’s most unique function and events spaces with an almost medieval feel, moody lighting and a distinct separation from the rest of the pub. It’s perfect for a blow-out group get-together. 
Inside the Grace Darling in Collingwood, Melbourne
Who to takeIf you pick correctly from the Grace Darling’s many warm, welcoming spaces, the pub works for any number of occasions with any number of people. Date night? Go low-key romantic with a toasty two-seat table alongside the roaring open fireplace. Birthday dinner? Book out the entire atrium and get your own semi-private dining room.