Boisterous and big-hearted, newcomer Grace has endeared herself to locals and visitors with an all-Australian wine and spirits offering, and refined food that leans “European, with a dash of Melbourne”.
The main-street shopfront occupies a circa 1904 building that was formerly a boot repairer, barber shop and, most recently, a private residence. Interiors combine patchwork walls of exposed red brick and white render, concrete floors, reclaimed timber and a travertine-topped steel bar made by Matt’s dad. Lunch service is light-filled and laid-back, morphing into mid-afternoon coffee and cake, or aperitivo before dinner kicks in with candles, the good Riedel glassware and cool tunes. Solo diners should grab one of the four bar seats. When the weather’s fine, there’s extra seating in the greenery-filled rear courtyard, soon to undergo a renovation that will create a 40-seat undercover function space.
The crowd always has a strong local contingent mixed with out-of-towners on weekend winery visits. “There’s a real sense of youth and enthusiasm in the main street now, and it’s exciting to be part of it,” says Erica.
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Grace’s wine list is an all-Australian affair (aside from one token Champagne) that gives preference to producers from Rutherglen and greater Victoria, plus hand-picked standouts from key regions such as Clare Valley riesling and McLaren Vale nero d’Avola. “If it’s not from Rutherglen, it’s a considered inclusion,” says Erica, whose list reflects the wines she likes to drink herself. It’s an invitation to get acquainted with some of the local heroes, such as 2022 Young Gun of Wine Rowly Milhinch, whose Scion range (made just down the road) is well represented here, and Mandy Jones of Jones Winery & Vineyard – try her Rhône-style marsanne-roussanne blend. Wines by the glass change weekly.
Spirits, likewise all Australian, include Beetlejuice amaro and Yuzucello (a citrusy digestif) both from Beechworth Bitters Company, a vanilla-bean vodka from Mansfield’s Swiftcrest Distillery, and Tasmanian single-malt whisky. They’re the backbone of a creative, 25-strong cocktail offering – best-sellers include the appealingly purple Violet Sour of violet gin, lime, egg white and vanilla simple syrup, and their delightful version of the classic Last Word – a combo of Chartreuse, gin and maraschino cherry liqueur.
Matt’s mostly Victorian beer list headlines only craft brewers, including his own Milk Dog Hazy Pale made in collaboration with Black Dog Brewery at nearby Taminick.
The menu changes monthly, but there’s always cured meats to be had, ideally with a glass of the Pinot Meunier Pét Nat from Clare Burder at Eminence Wines. Erica’s list has a small but dedicated section of these natural sparklings, something you won’t find elsewhere around these parts.
Produce is sourced from small-scale farms – locals often just drop off a box of “anything beautiful they have to sell” – which Matt turns into the likes of snackable potato and chickpea fritters with salted egg yolk, chicken with macadamia purée and grilled corn, or a variation on Indigo Valley lamb, which rarely comes off the menu for fear of upsetting the locals. For similarly sensible reasons, the croquettes are also a permanent fixture at Grace; only the flavours change.
Grace does double dinner sittings on Friday and Saturday nights. Locals know to book early for the 7:45pm sitting; visitors need to do likewise or they’ll be dining at 5:30pm or 5:45pm. Erica’s tendency to impulse-buy wines means there’s usually more on offer than meets the eye. If you’re after something beyond the printed by-the-glass list, ask what else is open.
Grace no longer routinely bakes the French pastries that locals flocked for when it first opened, but Matt will occasionally whip up a bunch of Portuguese custard tarts, or even a cake. Keep an eye on their socials for his sugar hits.
In winter, Grace offers what must be one of the most affordable truffle upgrades in the business, with the seasonal option to add freshly shaved Indigo Valley truffle to any dish for just $10. It goes great with the potato fritters, the bavette steak, lamb, and the risotto.
And while it’s not an official menu option, it’s worth asking if they’ll do a degustation option for a special occasion. They’ll match wines, cocktails and spirits, too, if that’s your fancy.
