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Gertrude Hotel

Tuesday: 4:00 – 11:00 PM
148 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, VIC, 3065
Phone
(03) 9942 0995
Website
thegertrude.com.au
Instagram
@thegertrudehotel

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 07 May 2024

By
Larissa Dubecki

The new bar and fit-out at Melbourne's Gertrude Hotel

This classic old pub has been given a new Italian lease on life, from the food and drinks to a non-shouty but chic makeover.  

The dining tables at the Gertrude Hotel in Melbourne
Why you goIf the cultural force of Melbourne pubs with an Italian flavour ever becomes a PhD thesis for a food and drink-loving academic, the Gertrude Hotel would provide a worthy case study. An old stager recently reinvented as the most trustworthy of local hangouts, it’s like a classic Australian pub ran away to the Veneto. Co-owner Andy Lockyear is a former chef lieutenant in Neil Perry’s stable, and he’s picked up more than just excellent cooking skills from his time with the ponytailed one. The newborn Gertrude’s package is cohesively Italiano, from the food and drinks to a non-shouty but chic makeover. It’s a little taste of la dolce vita, in a cracker of a spot.
Why you stayThe pub has a history as chequered as Gertrude Street – it started life in 1854 as Drewery’s Family Hotel, changed its name over the decades to the Leviathan, Squizzy Taylors and the Renown, and most recently was a neon-lit disco vibing joint with late-night DJs. Now the Gertrude Hotel has entered its sensible middle-aged phase, but that doesn’t mean it’s boring. Although the DJs have been given their marching orders and the Bowie lightning bolt banished from the exterior, there’s still plenty of charisma here. The front bar is a gorgeous mid-century space with a handsome curved marble-topped bar and venetian blinds peeking coyly out at the Gertrude Street action. Prop on a caramel leather stool here for a late afternoon beverage when the light is arrestingly perfect or grab a seat out on the street where people watching is Olympic level. And if al fresco is your vibe, there’s also a hidden first floor terrace with festoon lighting – you’ll find the staircase tucked right at the back. 
The bar at the Gertrude Hotel in Melbourne
Cocktails served up at Melbourne's Gertrude Hotel
What drink to orderYou’ve got to love a pub that respects the old as well as the new. Carlton Draught on tap sings a fanfare for the drinkers of yore, while the democratic draught selection also displays an eye for modern tastes with the marquee likes of Moondog, Bodriggy, Molly Rose and Hop Nation. Cocktails cleave to the Italian theme: think Agrumi Highball, which sees the Old Country’s limonata and Montenegro make firm friends with Sydney’s Archie Rose whisky, or a dirty house Martini. The wine list is the tipple highlight, however, with its 150-strong collection dividing its affections between Australian producers, with top drops from the award-draped Savaterre, Patrick Sullivan and Leeuwin Estate, and Italian with occasional forays into France and Spain. There are some splash-out worthy Champagnes if an occasion is being celebrated, and an all-round simpatico relationship with food.
What to pair it withThere’s a strong argument to be made in favour of a menu that bridges the gap between the higher-end fare of neighbouring Marion and the chicken parmas of Fitzroy’s multitude of old-school pubs. The middle road is a great place to be when it involves an aperitivo hour-worthy salumi plate jazzed up with guindilla peppers and pickled cucumbers, perky Sydney rock oysters with a perkier apple balsamic dressing or hollowed-out cucumbers piped with whipped feta and chickpea crumb flying the flag for retro-style party canapes. Going bigger, there’s a swimmer crab linguini that hits its KPIs with garlic, oil and chilli, while the rolled pork loin will thrill lovers of crackle. The wine selection available by the glass really steps up across the menu. Case in point: the tiramisu – a freeform scoop with a choc-hazelnut rubble – really gets its game on with an Eden Valley botrytis Riesling.
Various Italian-style dishes at Gertrude Hotel in Melbourne
The decor at Gertrude Hotel in Melbourne
Regular’s tipYou can tell the Gertrude is making a big play for the local crowd. With so much competition in the ’hood that can only be a win for the punters who can avail themselves of themed nights like the Monday mussel frenzy or $20 Tuesday pizzas. As for us, we’re totally there for the Wednesday pasta and vino combo that will give you change from $30. Here’s a way to beat the cost-of-living crisis in style.
Who to take Squizzy Taylor and his underworld buddies drank here in the 1920s, which will thrill any history buff in your inner circle. But the pub, described as a “handsome survivor” by the Fitzroy Historical Society, is the kind of place that will tick the boxes of pretty much anyone who walks through its door, whether that’s parents with kids doing a hit-and-run nursery-hour dinner or the heavily tattooed couple making eyes at each other over a late-night tiramisu and cocktail.
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In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Authour image
Larissa DubeckiLarissa Dubecki has been a journalist for more than 20 years and specialises in reviewing restaurants and bars.
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Drinks DirectoryMelbourneNon-alc OptionsMelbourne – NorthAfter work drinksGood for groupsCasual catch-upRestaurantPubBarTop notch wine listFamily affairMeal and a bevPet friendly
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