NOW EXPERIENCING:Bobbie Peels

The new and improved Bobbie Peels is a pub that has more than a few tricks up its sleeve, from the thoughtful drinks selection to the menu that makes the most of fresh produce from the neighbouring Queen Vic Market.

At the bar inside Bobbie Peels in North Melbourne
Why you goIt’s the corner pub from central casting – solid bones, soft amber lighting, pressed metal ceilings, the kind of place that looks largely unchanged since the days of the six o’clock swill, although that’s also down to some canny modern design work. But what began life 115 years ago as the Sir Robert Peel Hotel has morphed into Bobbie Peels. Its current iteration comes courtesy of Phil Gijsbers and Neil Mills, the names behind a bunch of other Melbourne hospo ventures, including Burnley Brewing, and they have the formula down pat: a no-fuss, relaxed attitude upfront belying some more serious moves that take it a notch or three above the stock-standard local. We’re not sure what Sir Robert would think of it, but it’s a pub that stays close to its roots while also keeping a few tricks up its sleeve, and that’s a pretty good formula to us.
Why you stayUp in the bit of North Melbourne close to the Queen Vic Market and the CBD skyscrapers, this new and improved Bobbie Peels is a debonaire chap. Stepping inside is like going back to the mid-1950s (in a good way) thanks to the half-tiled walls, the battle-scarred wooden floors, the gorgeous wooden front bar and the glowing orb lighting. It’s a nice place to hang your hat for a while (including the heated beer garden) but its attractions go beyond good looks. Grab a perch at a high table in the bar area and you’ll quickly see the offering is a world away from Carlton Draught and claret. The drinks list is keenly thought-out with a great range of craft beers and wine duking it out for your sipping affections, and the food also has plenty of surprises lurking in its classics-with-a-twist formula.
Looking through to the bar at Bobbie Peels in North Melbourne
Some of the wines on offer at Bobbie Peels in North Melbourne
What drink to orderIt’s a pub, so let’s start with the beer – namely, a very respectable line-up of indie labels guesting on the six rotating taps (the current stayers are Deeds and Coopers Pale). Classic cocktails are made with a great range of craft spirits, many of them locally produced including Mountain Distilling from New Gisborne, second home to Bobbie Peels’ co-owner Mills. The wine choices by the glass display plenty of thought and an appreciation of breadth. Case in point: this isn’t a place too proud to pour a sparkling shiraz (all in favour of the Best’s from Great Western say aye) while the skin-contact brigade also has a trio to choose from. There isn’t a sauv blanc or a cab sav by the glass, but there is a vermentino and a nero d’Avola – it’s that kind of place.
What to pair it withThe Queen Vic Market just up the road is giving the kitchen plenty of produce-driven playthings for its ever-lengthening menu. Hand-made pasta is a thing, with a delicious cacio e pepe update using pappardelle, fresh peas and beurre blanc, and pork ravioli receiving a sage-enhanced eggplant ragu. Cured local kingfish ticks the citrus and house-made mayo boxes, while plates of cured meats and pickles can easily do for dinner. As for the obligatory steak, it can be luxed up with a half lobster tail and bisque.
The menu at Bobbie Peels offers a wide range of dishes
There are some special backvintages of wines at Bobbie Peels
Regular’s tipGet in early to commandeer the intimate little nook between the main bar and the dining room. Hiding between two archways, this booth is Bobbie Peels’ most covetable real estate and sure-fire way to make a private party.
Make it fancyThe wine list is a democratic beast, but its deeper end is waiting with some serious moves, with aged classics popping out of the cellar crypt. They won’t necessarily break the bank either, but here’s the chance to sink your teeth into a cult  ’05 Cullen Diana Madeline cab merlot or a ’99 Fox Creek Shiraz from McLaren Vale. If you have a bunch of friends in tow, there’s a selection of magnums to really get the night started.
Who to takeGot a mate who loves wine? Are you swinging by the Vic Market for a shop or to scratch your American hot-jam-donut itch? Or do you simply live or work up here in this burgeoning part of the city? Whatever the case, making friends with Bobbie Peels is a no-brainer.