NOW EXPERIENCING:Bertie
Friday: 12:00 – 11:00 PM
Phone
No phone
Website
bertiewinebar.com.au
Instagram
@bertie_bassendean

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 18 Dec 2023

By
Max Veenhuyzen


The facade of Bertie, a new wine bar in Perth

A gun bartender and an accomplished chef opened a neighbourhood wine bar with a British spin in Bassendean, and locals lived – and drank and ate – happily ever after.

Why you goWelcome to historic Bassendean: an upwardly mobile suburb famous for its long-standing local pub, footy oval, rail museum and – as of mid-2023 – this polished neighbourhood wine bar. The first venue from veteran Perth bartender James Connolly, Bertie is a distillation of our man’s time in craft-cocktail bars as well as a stint overseeing bar programs for a major hospitality group. Add a vested interest in making Bertie shine (James and his young family live in the area) and you’ve got the makings of a destination neighbourhood establishment.
The bar Perth's Bertie
Why you stayWhile some pages of Bertie’s look-book borrow from yesteryear – vintage grocer’s scales sit on shelves around the bar, the door to the restrooms is set with beautiful fluted glass – this historic shopfront on Old Perth Road is no colour-by-numbers joint. Dark timber flooring, fresh-faced furnishings and woven textile art lend modern sensibilities to the space, while the shaded outdoor area strewn with plants has summery good times written all over it. Well-groomed staff make terrific ambassadors for Bertie’s brand of professional, inclusive hospitality and are equally at home serving extended family groups as they are looking after couples and their industry peers.
What drink to order

With Bertie’s 15 or so by-the-glass pours, wine drinkers have plenty of territory to explore. Maybe open proceedings with refreshing Italian prosecco before moving on to some aged riesling from Victoria’s High Country or chilled sangiovese. Or perhaps ask to see the (well-priced) bottle list and do your own thing. 

Like we were saying, James knows his way around a cocktail shaker and it shows, not least in the classics given smart, subtle tweaks. Curry leaves give the Bombay Tommy’s Margarita a fragrant lift, while the pineapple-infused Negroni introduces some tropical richness to the classic apéritif.

The beer range stars both well-known names and emerging brands. Nail Brewing, an early WA craft-beer pioneer that also calls Bassendean home, is a permanent fixture on the menu.

A cocktail at Bertie in Perth
Some dishes served up at Bertie
What to pair it withLike at many Perth wine bars, share plates are the order of the day. But unlike many Perth wine bars, Bertie looks to the British pub for inspiration rather than France or Italy. The result is a chalkboard menu that’s both familiar yet novel. Sometimes the special comes from the benefits of DIY (exhibit A: the fruity house-made brown sauce that chaperones a panko-crumbed Scotch egg). Other times the wow-factor comes down to chef Anthony Yuill doing the unexpected, such as turning mushrooms and the Japanese cooking wine mirin into a glossy parfait-like spread you slather on fingers of toasted focaccia. For those after something more traditional, seek out the bangers and mash or the mini ploughman’s platter.
Why we love it“Daddy!” yells a little girl as she bursts through the front door and makes a beeline for her main man behind the bar. As cute as this Sunday afternoon scene is, you don’t have to have a family member on staff to appreciate Bertie’s community spirit. A group of friends outside are settling in for the afternoon. On the table there’s a bottle of chardonnay in an ice bucket. Someone’s dog lies contentedly alongside its human. A passer-by comes in and asks for – and receives – a glass of water and a smile. In a short space of time, this newcomer has won over locals, who quickly embraced Bertie as their own.
Make it fancyAlthough Bertie wants you to think of it as your everyday local, the team also hopes you’ll celebrate there, too. This explains why they’ve embedded a few bigger-ticket bottles throughout the wine list: harder-to-find Champagnes and European fizz, white-wine treasures from France, and superstar Aussie reds. Behind the bar, single malts from beloved distillers such as Laphroaig and Glenfarclas should catch the eye of Scotch drinkers. 
The menu is listed on chalkboards at Bertie in Perth
Who to take

Bertie is an all-rounder capable of handling any social situation, from after-work drinks to dinner on the weekend with buddies. Heck, you don’t even need to like wine to have a good time here. While everyone is welcome, most of the room is configured for couples and groups of four, so it’s a good idea to book ahead for a large group. But even if you’re visiting solo, you’ll still have a beaut time. Park up at the bar and enjoy a close-up view of a modern-day local doing things right.