A timeless blueprint for exactly what every local bar can and should be, Arcadia leaves visitors wishing they had a joint this good in their neighbourhood.
It’s nearly impossible to compare the Redfern of the here and now to the Redfern of 2012. In those days, the inner-city suburb’s main streets had precious little to offer in the way of hospitality. Today, small bars, cafés and casual restaurants are popping up seemingly every minute, and the trend shows no sign of slowing down.
Crediting Arcadia Liquors alone with the rise and rise of Redfern wouldn’t be fair to a handful of other long-standing local businesses, but it also wouldn’t be entirely unreasonable. Here was a decidedly unfussy bar that came along at the height of Sydney’s small-bar revolution, drawing people away from the flashier CBD and Surry Hills with the simple promise of unpretentious, reasonably priced drinks in a cosy environment and not a whole lot else.
It hasn’t evolved much in its lifespan, but it has left a substantial ripple in its wake, setting a new standard for establishments that sit somewhere between pub and cocktail bar, and leaving nearly all visitors wishing they had something this good in their ’hood.
Exposed bricks, fairy lights, thrift-shop curios and a bunch of upcycled furniture – that’s pretty much all there is to the no-frills set dressing, along with lush pot-plants in a covered courtyard area out back. In truth, it probably isn’t all that different from a mate’s sharehouse, which is what makes it so inviting.
The high-ceilinged room seems to bask in a permanent golden glow, no matter the hour, as well as a warmth that’s matched (and perhaps even exceeded) by the staff, many of whom have stuck around a while. And then there’s the playlist, which skips recklessly through genres, but never seems to miss a beat.
As you sit and soak it all in, you’ll start to wonder why so many other bars get it so wrong. Whether you limber up here before moving on, close things out with a nightcap or while away the hours in between, the dial is permanently set to whatever the moment calls for.
If you didn’t already know that the toasties here are the stuff of legend, then the tempting scent of white bread in the sandwich press should make it clear. Much like the bar itself, they’re nothing too fancy, but they’re everything you want to eat with one hand while you hold a drink in the other – piping hot, golden brown and stuffed with the likes of halloumi or marinated eggplant, roasted red peppers, olives and Swiss cheese. And better yet, they come with a couple of pickles and a choice of condiments – American mustard and Sriracha sauce for the win.
